I thought it had been a long time since I last visited Suzhou, so I decided to avoid the crowds by going before the May Day holiday. My plan was to stroll through a garden, listen to some Pingtan, and give my weary soul a brief respite.
However, I never expected that everyone else had the same idea. With the saying “spring is not late,” Suzhou was directly overwhelmed by visitors.
The whole point of visiting a garden is to feel comfortable. If you can only be squeezed through by a large crowd of tourists, what’s the point?
So, after arriving in Suzhou, I crossed off my original itinerary, which included the Suzhou Museum, Xiyuan Temple, and Liuyuan Garden. Instead, I took out my Suzhou plan B, and at that moment, I was extremely grateful that I had prepared two options.
After wandering around Suzhou for three days, it proved that my strategy was indeed very effective. Not only did I successfully avoid most of the tourists, but I also touched upon an authentic Suzhou.
Friends who are familiar with Suzhou all know that gardens and small alleys with flowing water are the soul of Suzhou, and neither can be missing.
During these three days, I constantly shuttled through the small alleys and visited the hidden gem gardens that were neighbors with the locals.
I spaced out in the deserted Quyuan Garden, petted cats in the Yiyuan Garden, which combines the best of all the major gardens, encountered a tree in full bloom at a deserted corner, and desperately inhaled the fragrance of food wafting from the small alleys… It was super delightful!
Therefore, when visiting Suzhou during the peak season, we must open up our horizons.
As a true “city of gardens,” Suzhou has 108 gardens, and there are countless small alleys. There really is no need for everyone to crowd together.
Moreover, visiting small but exquisite gardens is often more interesting. They are hidden in long alleys, with local residences right next door, and can easily be missed if you’re not paying attention.
But coming here is like visiting an old friend’s house. The warm and lively atmosphere of life is almost overflowing from all around, making you feel incredibly comfortable.
After the trip, I also summarized three less crowded and less tiring Suzhou tour routes for everyone. Friends coming to Suzhou for the May Day holiday can take a look.
The routes are as follows:
- Yipu – Quyuan – Yiyuan – Ximei Alley
- Ouyuan – Daxin Bridge Alley – Dinghui Temple Alley
- Canglang Pavilion – Keyuan Garden – Nighttime visit to the Humble Administrator’s Garden
However, the third route will be a bit more crowded. You can choose to go to Canglang Pavilion and Keyuan Garden at 4 pm, as there will be fewer people before these two gardens close. Moreover, the gardens will have more classical beauty at dusk.
As for the nighttime visit to the Humble Administrator’s Garden, although there are many tourists, it is highly recommended. The gardens at night have a different charm, and you can stay in the garden until closing time. The later it gets, the fewer people there are.
Route 1
Yipu – Quyuan – Yiyuan – Ximei Alley
Yipu, Quyuan, and Yiyuan are not far from each other, so you can stroll through them one by one. Finally, you can drink some coffee and eat something in Ximei Alley, which is very comfortable.
Yipu
📍Location: No. 5, Tiankuqian Wenya Alley, Qiaomen, Gusu District
💰Ticket: 10 yuan
Yipu was built in the Ming Dynasty and is located in a small alley with many twists and turns. You have to pass through a large area of Suzhou residences to reach it.
Among all the small gardens in Suzhou, Yipu is my favorite. It is really too, too exquisite.
Yipu is not very large, but the layout of the water pavilion, rockery, and residential area has a natural flow and Chinese beauty, and every step presents a picturesque view.
This time when I visited Yipu, I found that its roses were in bloom. There are three stunning rose photo spots in the garden, which can be seen right at the entrance.
They are perfectly matched with the white walls and window views of the garden. If you come to Yipu during the May Day holiday, you can still catch the peak blooming period of the roses.
However, there are quite a few people coming to take photos of the roses, so if you want to take portraits, you must arrive early.
Quyuan
📍Location: No. 43, Mayike Alley, Gusu District
💰Ticket: 0
Quyuan is the former residence of the famous Qing Dynasty literary figure Yu Yue. Although it only covers an area of about 5 mu (about 0.82 acres), it is small but complete.
Strolling in this small garden, you can see the perfect combination of residence and classical garden. Passing through the main hall, you will find a garden with pavilions, towers, rockeries, ponds, and goldfish, all in one place.
There are very few people here, forming a quiet world of its own. If you want to find a quiet garden to space out, this is the best place.
I also like the small alleys near Quyuan. The atmosphere of life is very strong, with vegetable markets frequented by locals and Suzhou people chatting and playing cards at street corners… You can always hear the soft Suzhou dialect, which is very local.
Yiyuan
📍Location: No. 1265, Renmin Road, Gusu District
💰Ticket: ¥15
Yiyuan is one of the nine famous gardens in Suzhou. Although it is called Yiyuan (Garden of Pleasure), it is actually very interesting.
Perhaps because it was built later, it can incorporate the best of various Suzhou gardens in terms of garden style. Therefore, it is not surprising that many people say they can see the shadows of many Suzhou gardens here.
Yiyuan itself is also very classical and tranquil, making it super suitable for taking photos in Hanfu (traditional Chinese clothing). Girls who like to take photos in Hanfu must come here to check in.
However, the most popular attraction in Yiyuan recently is the two little cats, one orange and one white. I was also very lucky to encounter both of them during my visit to Yiyuan.
The two little cats have very different personalities. One is very quiet, and the other is very active. The quiet orange cat sat on the road, lost in thought, as if contemplating its feline life, which was very interesting.
Ximei Alley
Ximei Alley is only 500 meters long, but it is full of hidden talents. Here, you can encounter the fusion of the old and new faces of Suzhou.
Kuang Gong Shrine
Many people only know about Bao Zheng, but they are not familiar with Kuang Zhong, who was equally famous as a “clear sky” (meaning an upright and honest official). Kuang Zhong was a clean official in the Ming Dynasty and once served as the governor of Suzhou. Kuang Gong Shrine is a special shrine built to commemorate him.
The shrine is very small, and you can quickly finish walking around it. However, there are two purple catalpa trees in bloom, which, together with the small garden, create a very exquisite and beautiful scene.
At the entrance of the residential area diagonally opposite Kuang Gong Shrine, roses are climbing on the doorframe, looking extremely romantic and perfect for taking photos.
BEANSPRESSO Soy Milk Shop
I definitely couldn’t miss the magical experience of drinking a soy milk specialty in a coffee shop named “Soy Milk.”
It is hidden in a small courtyard. When you turn a corner in an ordinary courtyard and see such a minimalist-decorated, unique coffee shop, it always feels a bit understated.
However, the soy milk here really surprised me. When you first taste it, there is a distinct aroma of mottled leaves, and after drinking it, there is a slight feeling of being mildly intoxicated.
Kiss Coffee
Kiss Coffee, one of the three coffee giants in Suzhou, is truly delicious.
You must try a cup of their signature orange blossom iced brew, which has a very rich taste.
After taking a sip, a subtle orange fragrance spreads in your mouth, diluting the bitterness of the coffee. It is cold, refreshing, and very suitable for drinking after getting tired from shopping.
The shop’s design features a trendy industrial style, with many very cool and interesting decorations and signs, making it a great place to relax and space out.
There are quite a few hidden gem stores in Ximei Alley. Gua Si Tang next to Kiss Coffee is also good, but unfortunately, their portion sizes are too large for me to finish alone. Next time, I must bring a friend to eat there.
Route 2
Ouyuan Garden – Daxin Bridge Alley – Dinghui Temple Alley
This route can start from Ouyuan Garden near Pingjiang Road. After visiting Ouyuan Garden, walk less than 500 meters to reach Daxin Bridge Alley, where the agarwood trees are in spectacular bloom.
After taking photos of the flowers in Daxin Bridge Alley, you can go to Dinghui Temple Alley to visit ancient temples, eat mutton, drink coffee… and enjoy a leisurely time.
This route is near Pingjiang Road. If it’s your first time visiting Suzhou, you can also take the opportunity to visit Pingjiang Road (of course, it will be very crowded).
Ouyuan Garden
📍Location: Xin Bridge Alley, Cang Street, Gusu District
💰Ticket: ¥60
Let me give you a brief introduction to Ouyuan Garden. It is one of the few gardens in Suzhou with a love story theme and one of the best-preserved ancient residential gardens in Suzhou.
Although it is not far from Pingjiang Road, it has a rare tranquility and ease. Walking in the garden, you are surrounded by lush greenery everywhere. The window views are hazy and graceful with green, displaying a Chinese-style romance.
Ouyuan Garden is also surrounded by water on three sides, with a connecting pier at the back door.
I highly recommend the ¥60 Ouyuan Garden ticket, which includes not only the main ticket but also tea drinking in the Double Photo Building and a ceremonial boat ride out of the garden.
For tea, they provide two types of tea leaves: Keemun black tea and Huangshan Maofeng. You can get unlimited refills of water. If you have nothing to do, you can sit by the window for an entire afternoon, as the window views are all very beautiful.
The boat ride out of the garden is very short, only a few minutes, mainly for the sake of ceremony. If you’re not satisfied, you can pay extra to have the boatman row for a while longer.
After finishing your tea, when you exit the Ouyuan Garden tea room and walk towards the exit, there is a very beautiful agarwood tree in the corner, which you should still be able to see if you visit these days.
Daxin Bridge Alley
From Ouyuan Garden, follow the navigation and walk forward to reach Daxin Bridge Alley.
Currently, the agarwood and roses in Daxin Bridge Alley are blooming together. The light pink and pale yellow flowers are like curtains adorning the old alleys of Suzhou, swaying in the wind, embodying the gentleness unique to Jiangnan.
Dinghui Temple Alley
A small alley less than 300 meters long, it looks inconspicuous and is very easy to miss, but you can see historical relics such as an Eastern Han temple and Song Dynasty twin pagodas along the way, taking half a day to explore.
In addition, the alley also hides several small restaurants that even locals love to eat at, with top-notch deliciousness.
Dinghui Temple
💰Ticket: 0
If Xiyuan Temple is becoming too commercialized, why not visit Dinghui Temple, which even Su Shi loved to visit a thousand years ago?
Dinghui Temple was first built in the Tang Dynasty and was rebuilt in the Ming Dynasty after being destroyed by war. The entire temple is not very large but has a rare tranquility.
I really like the two 200-year-old ginkgo trees in front of the main hall, which are towering like canopies and very zen-like. If you come in autumn, the golden ginkgo trees are even more stunning.
Twin Pagodas Park
💰Ticket: ¥8
These twin pagodas are a rare sight of Song Dynasty architecture. One is a sarira pagoda, and the other is a merit sarira pagoda. They look almost identical, but the east pagoda is actually slightly lower than the west pagoda.
Twin Pagodas Park is now also the Suzhou Ancient Stone Carving Art Museum, which displays many stone carvings from the Tang Dynasty to the Qing Dynasty. History enthusiasts can spend more time exploring here.
Xingfen Mutton Shop
I heard that this shop has been open for more than twenty years. You can see that many of the customers dining in the shop are old customers, and they are very familiar with the boss when greeting and ordering.
I ordered the mutton, Chinese cabbage, and vermicelli soup. For ¥20, you get a large, full portion. The mutton is freshly sliced, and the soup base is very tasty. With one mouthful of mutton and vermicelli and one mouthful of soup, your whole body feels warm.
In addition to mutton soup, they also have mutton hot pot and stir-fried dishes. If you come with a group, you can try them.
Dongjiaomen Pot Stickers
Dongjiaomen Pot Stickers is located diagonally opposite Xingfen Mutton Shop and serves old-style Suzhou pot stickers.
I ordered the signature fresh meat pot stickers. The bottom is crispy, and the filling is fresh. They give a generous amount of meat filling. When you take a bite, it slightly bursts with juice and has the sweetness unique to Suzhou, which I really like.
Route 3
Canglang Pavilion – Ke Garden – Master of the Nets Garden Night Tour
This route will have more people, but it’s also very Suzhou-esque.
Canglang Pavilion and Ke Garden are next to each other. After visiting these two gardens, you can first go to Shiquan Street to eat and drink. After eating and drinking to your heart’s content, you can go to the Master of the Nets Garden to queue for the night tour.
Canglang Pavilion
📍Location: No. 3, Canglang Pavilion Street, Renmin Road, Gusu District
💰Ticket: ¥20
Compared to the renowned Humble Administrator’s Garden and Lingering Garden, I prefer the secluded Canglang Pavilion. It was first built in the Northern Song Dynasty and is the oldest garden in Suzhou, hidden in the bustling city.
The unique garden art of Canglang Pavilion also allows the aesthetics of the East to be interpreted to the extreme here. Walking in the garden, the lush greenery is exceptionally healing.
The scattered sunlight shines in, and the bamboo shadows sway, making you understand why the ancients said, “I would rather eat without meat than live without bamboo.”
As the sun sets in the west, sitting on the small bridge in front of Canglang Pavilion, the golden light shimmers on the water surface, filling the gaps between the green trees outside the garden. The slightly shimmering light seems to add a layer of classical filter, instantly transporting you back to the elegance of the Song Dynasty.
Ke Garden
📍Location: No. 48, Renmin Road, Gusu District
💰Ticket: ¥25
Ke Garden is right across from Canglang Pavilion and is currently the only surviving academy garden in Suzhou.
There are far fewer visitors here than in Canglang Pavilion, making it very comfortable to stroll around casually. The spring willows and clear pond in Ke Garden are very healing, and there are many flowers to photograph now.
Canglang Pavilion closes relatively early, so if you arrive late, it is recommended to visit Canglang Pavilion first and then Ke Garden.
Tips: You can buy a combined ticket for these two parks, which will be 5 yuan cheaper.
Master of the Nets Garden Night Tour
📍Location: No. 11, Kuojiatou Alley, Daicheng Bridge Road, Gusu District
💰Ticket: ¥100
There are several gardens in Suzhou that can be visited at night, such as the Humble Administrator’s Garden’s “Humble Administrator’s Elegant Inquiry,” Canglang Pavilion’s “Six Records of a Floating Life”… but the one with the best value for money and the most positive reviews is still the Master of the Nets Garden’s “Master of the Nets’ Playful Words.”
As the lights come on, entering the Master of the Nets Garden is like stepping into ancient times, with flickering lights, swaying tree shadows, and melodious Kunqu opera… At this moment, it’s as if you have become the owner of the garden.
The first performance is the silk and bamboo music “Moonlit Night on the Spring River,” the second is the Kunqu opera “Fifteen Strings – Visiting the Mouse to Test the Characters,” the third is the Pingtan “White Snake Admiring the Mid-Autumn Festival,” the fourth is the Kun dance “Magnolia,” the fifth is the pipa and xiao ensemble “Qingping Music,” the sixth is the Kunqu opera “The Peony Pavilion,” and the finale is the guqin piece “Traces of the Cold Mountain Monk.”
The seven performances fully capture the essence of Suzhou culture. The ticket price is ¥100, and I personally feel it’s worth seeing.
After watching the performances, you can still stroll around the garden. The Master of the Nets Garden at night is another world. The lighting is just right, making it classically vivid.
Tips:
- The night tour of the Master of the Nets Garden starts at 7:30 pm, with the latest entry at 9:00 pm. It is viewed in batches, with 40 people allowed in every 5 minutes. It is recommended to either come early to queue or come later to avoid the peak flow of people.
- There are a total of 7 performances in the night tour of the Master of the Nets Garden, performed in a loop. You can first follow the guide to walk through it once, and after experiencing it, you can explore the garden on your own and re-watch your favorite performances.
The three routes today not only have fewer people and are more local, but the distance between each two check-in points is also not far, so walking won’t be tiring.
When you get tired from walking, there are many snack shops and coffee shops along the way where you can rest, making the comfort level of the tour very high.
