Recently, I embarked on a long-awaited trip to Fujian. When choosing my final destination, I bypassed the provincial capital Fuzhou, the old internet celebrity Xiamen, and the “current hot spot” Quanzhou. Instead, I opted for a low-key yet deeply rooted treasure trove of an old city—Zhangzhou.
In conversations with friends from Zhangzhou, they mentioned that when introducing their hometown in the past, they always had to add, “it’s next to Xiamen,” only then would people have a sudden realization and say, “Oh, so it’s in Fujian.”
However, this is not entirely true. If you delve deeper into this city, you’ll discover that it’s not as unfamiliar as you might think.
Here, you can find internet celebrity check-in spots that flood social media platforms every summer: Zhenhaijiao, Dongshan Island, Huoshan Island…
There are also the uniquely charming Yunshanyao Ancient Town and the Tulou clusters. Even if you don’t visit these popular spots, the ancient and simple old town area can still provide you with a wonderful experience.
Take this year’s May Day holiday as an example. Zhangzhou jumped to the top of the national search rankings for ancient cities, with everyone wanting to come here and immerse themselves in the “slow life.”
Yes, slowness is Zhangzhou’s biggest attribute. The locals all have a contented attitude on their faces, even the cats and dogs lie lazily in the shade, breathing languorously. The soothing Minnan songs serve as the city’s background music, making it difficult for you to feel rushed when you arrive here.
Most importantly, Zhangzhou is also a particularly delicious city. “Play in Suzhou and Hangzhou, eat in Zhangzhou and Quanzhou” is not just a simple saying.
The calm and uncompetitive temperament has allowed Zhangzhou to preserve many old-fashioned Minnan flavors. Each county and district even has its own “specialty,” such as salted chicken in Longwen District, seafood in Dongshan County, and Maozai porridge in Zhao’an County… It’s completely worth me writing another article to chat with everyone about it.
So today, let’s take a look together at where the magic of Zhangzhou lies~ I will divide the following content into two parts, namely the Zhangzhou city area and the surrounding areas of Zhangzhou. You can refer to them according to your own itinerary~
City Walking in Zhangzhou
Zhangzhou Ancient City
📍 Northwest corner of the intersection of Xiuwen West Road and Yan’an South Road, Xiangcheng District
The most worthwhile place to stay in Zhangzhou city is definitely the area of Zhangzhou Ancient City.
This is the city center of Zhangzhou. The seemingly dilapidated arcade buildings, memorial archways, and Western-style houses are situated on several crisscrossing small streets. They showcase the history of Zhangzhou and the daily life of its people.
If it’s your first time visiting Zhangzhou Ancient City, why not start your tour from Zhongshan Park on Yan’an Road?
This place carries countless memories of Zhangzhou people. From dawn to dusk, people in the park come and go, either taking a walk, exercising, or chatting about family matters, always presenting their most authentic state of life.
Moreover, if you dig deep into the history of this park, it also has quite a background. It was rebuilt from the old Zhangzhou Prefecture Yamen and is the first citizen’s park in China named after Sun Yat-sen. Since 1918, it has never missed any key point in modern and contemporary history.
Continue walking along Yan’an Road, and you’ll reach the “Ancient Street District” within the ancient city.
This area consists of Hong Kong Road, Taiwan Road, Shixing Road, Xiuwen Road, and Fanghua Lane. Among them, Hong Kong Road and Taiwan Road are the essence of the old neighborhood. Most of the traditional old shops still have wooden doors. By walking around here, you can get a comprehensive view of Zhangzhou’s lifestyle.
The Confucian Temple, which was built in the Northern Song Dynasty, is also located within the ancient city. It has a history of more than 900 years and is the largest national key cultural relic protection unit in Zhangzhou city. The entire Confucian Temple is spacious and bright, with dark colors as the main tone. There are not many tourists, so you can walk around slowly and feel the historical atmosphere of Zhangzhou.
In addition, Zhangzhou Ancient City is also one of the gathering places for Zhangzhou snacks. During my two days in Zhangzhou, I ate so much that my belt got noticeably tighter… I will write a separate Zhangzhou food guide for everyone later, so stay tuned!
Qishou Yan Temple
📍 Yuanhou Village, 324 National Road, Longhai District
Situated on the southern bank of the Jiulong River, Qishou Yan Temple is the oldest millennium-old temple in Zhangzhou, with a history that predates the city itself. In the local context, mountain temples are referred to as “Yan,” which is equivalent to the meaning of “temple.”
This is the sacred site of Manjushri Bodhisattva and has the beautiful title of “North Wutai, South Qishou.” Since its establishment during the Liang Dynasty, sages from the Song, Ming, and Qing dynasties, such as Zhu Xi, Huang Daozhou, Xu Xiake, and Zhang Xie, have all left their footprints and poems here.
During the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom era, Qishou Yan Temple fell into decline due to the turmoil of war. Today, under the revival and reconstruction efforts of Master Zhaoguang and many artistic giants, it presents a new face that showcases the interplay of ancient and modern culture and style, embodying the aesthetics of Zen and offering fascinating insights.
Upon reaching the mountaintop where Qishou Yan is located, you can visit the resplendent Wenshu Hall, which is actually made entirely of bronze. Walk across the bronze-cast Tongxin Wisdom Bridge, then enjoy a cup of tea on the open-air platform halfway up the mountain, overlooking the panoramic view of Zhangzhou to the sound of the waterfall, which is truly a wonderful experience.
Jiulong Riverside
📍 Intersection of Jiangbin Road, Xiamen Road, and Jiefang Road, Xiangcheng District
In the evening, you can take a walk along the Jiulong River, known as the “Mother River” of Zhangzhou people. Cross the Zhongshan Bridge, feel the river breeze, and experience the unique “Longjiang Years” of Zhangzhou.
The riverside of Jiangbin Road is always lined with tables and chairs for tea in the evening. Summer arrives early in Zhangzhou. After dinner, under the moonlight and starlight, local residents will ride bicycles or electric bikes to enjoy the cool air and walk their dogs. Some will also bring along salted chicken, braised dishes, and fruits for a light snack and drink, which is the leisurely nightlife unique to Zhangzhou.
Exploring the Surroundings of Zhangzhou: Visiting World Cultural Heritage Sites
When visiting Fujian, it’s hard to miss the Tulou (earthen buildings). During my trip to Zhangzhou, I also made sure to check them out.
However, to be honest, the locations of Tulou are relatively remote. So, for a better experience, I directly booked a Tulou one-day tour. These one-day tours are available for purchase on platforms like Fliggy and Ctrip. The cost varies depending on the scenic spots included, and you can choose according to your preferences.
This time, I opted for the Nanjing Yunshanyao Ancient Town + Tianluo Keng Tulou Cluster one-day tour.
Departing in the morning, the pure tour time is about 5-6 hours, including a group lunch. However, as we all know, the group lunch is just to fill your stomach… Without further ado, let me share my group tour experience with you~
Since it was a group tour, there was a tour guide accompanying us throughout the itinerary, providing explanations.
The first stop was Yunshanyao Ancient Town. Previously, my understanding of Yunshanyao was only from movies. When it finally appeared before my eyes, I was momentarily stunned.
During the visit, I learned that the original name of Yunshanyao is actually “Changjiao.” It is an ancient village with an extremely long history. The secluded ancient paths, century-old banyan trees, marvelous Tulou, along with the spiritual mountains and clear waters, all give a sense of transcendent freshness.
The Hegui Building and Huaiyuan Building in the village are two of the 46 World Heritage Tulou. Along the way, there are murmuring streams, waterwheels, and large banyan trees, earning them the reputation of being the most romantic Tulou.
Hegui Building is the first one you see upon entering the village and is known to be the tallest among the Fujian Tulou.
This Tulou was built on a swamp and has remained sturdy and stable for over 200 years. Stepping inside, you can even bounce a few times on the walkway near the entrance to feel the swaying of the ground… It’s truly amazing to witness the wisdom of the ancients!
Huaiyuan Building, on the other hand, is currently the most exquisitely crafted and well-preserved double-ring circular Tulou, considered a masterpiece of traditional residential art. However, its unique style and circular-within-circular design also result in slightly dim lighting inside. Nonetheless, this does not affect the visitors’ sensory experience, as they are equally greeted with a chorus of “wow.”
Moving forward, you will reach the world-famous “First Wonder Building of China” – Yuchang Building.
Yuchang Building, also known as the Leaning Building, derives its name from the many askew pillars supporting it. With a history of over 700 years, it may appear precarious, but it is actually very sturdy. The owners have been calmly living inside for hundreds of years.
Personally, I feel that the structures of Tulou are generally similar. After seeing many, it’s easy to experience visual fatigue. There’s no need to visit every single one; selecting one is sufficient.
However, I highly recommend staying overnight in the area. The living atmosphere of Tulou can only be truly experienced by stopping and immersing yourself.
After visiting these sites, we took a bus directly to the Tianluo Keng Tulou Cluster (5 buildings). It is the representative of Tulou – “four dishes and one soup” and the iconic building of Fujian Tulou, a symbol of world heritage.
The Tianluo Keng Tulou Cluster is mainly appreciated from a distance for photography. There are two best viewing angles: overlooking and looking up, described as “looking at a flower from above and Potala Palace from below.” Both classic perspectives have dedicated viewing spots in the scenic area, making it very photogenic.
After completing the visits to Yunshanyao Ancient Town and the Tulou Cluster, the trip gradually came to an end. The tour guide led us from Taxia Village to the parking lot.
It must be said that Taxia Village boasts beautiful scenery and fresh air, reminiscent of a paradise on earth. The entire two-kilometer walk was not tiring at all, truly worthy of being an authentic Hakka village with a history of over 600 years.
Overall, this type of one-day tour itinerary is more suitable for friends visiting Fujian who are not self-driving. It’s worry-free and effortless, without the need to plan the itinerary yourself. The tour will take you to the most essential parts of the entire scenic area, provide time for rest and photography, and the tour guide will remind you of the best photo spots, which is quite good.
After writing this guide, it feels like I’ve taken another trip to Zhangzhou. This leisurely and delightful city with abundant delicacies is truly worth visiting again and again.
Travel Tips
Zhangzhou Ancient City
- Transportation: If taking the high-speed train, you can transfer from Xiamen to Zhangzhou Station. The fastest journey from Xiamen Station takes 31 minutes, and from Xiamen North Station, it takes 18 minutes. If taking a flight, you can take a taxi from Xiamen Airport to Zhangzhou, which takes about 1 hour.
- Accommodation: For convenience in exploring and dining, staying in the urban area is recommended. The long-established Zhangzhou hotel, Baxiang Yuanshan, is recommended. The hotel is not too far from the main areas for exploring and dining, and it is very suitable for families with children.
Nanjing Tulou
- Transportation: You can first take the high-speed train to Nanjing County High-speed Railway Station. From Zhangzhou Station, it takes about 15 minutes, and from Xiamen, it takes about 50 minutes. After arriving in Nanjing County, you can take bus No. 6 to the Tulou Reception Scenic Area, which takes 1.5-2 hours.
- Accommodation: There are many homestay options in the Yunshanyao Scenic Area; choose according to your preferences. If visiting the Tianluo Keng Scenic Area, Qingpu Nanjing Tulou is recommended. Additionally, Liangyu Holiday Homestay is also good.
