As is well known, Yunnan is like a dazzling pearl in God’s palette, with countless beautiful places to explore. In this magical land, God seems to have lavished his favor without restraint, weaving countless moving stories into a series of gorgeous paintings, bestowing endless poetry and romance upon this land.
If you long to escape the hustle and bustle and find a quiet corner to rest your soul, then apart from the prosperity of Lijiang and the tranquility of Dali, there is another little-known secret spot quietly waiting for your discovery.
There, prices are as affordable as in Dali, but with a little less commercial hustle and bustle; there, the charm is as simple as in Lijiang, but with a bit more peace and tranquility. For just five hundred yuan, you can fully enjoy this land and experience its unique charm.
It is Jianshui Ancient Town, a hidden treasure in the depths of Yunnan.
“The Last Living Ancient Town in China”
In China, ancient towns are like countless stars, and Yunnan is even more picturesque. However, the existence of Jianshui Ancient Town is like a hidden pearl, bringing endless surprises to everyone who enters Yunnan and accidentally encounters this small town.
It avoids the hustle and bustle of popular tourist spots, and with its unique historical charm and simple folk customs, it has become a treasure trove in the hearts of today’s deep travel enthusiasts.
Some say it is the last breathing ancient town in China.
It was once the intersection of politics, economy, and culture in the Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties. The history of Jianshui Town can be traced back to the earthen city of the Nanzhao period. In the twentieth year of the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty (1387), this city was expanded into a solid brick city. After twelve centuries of wind and rain, it still stands tall, with more than fifty ancient buildings standing like guardians of history, silently telling the story of past glory.
Therefore, it is known as the “Museum of Ancient Architecture” and “Museum of Folk Houses”, attracting the eyes of countless tourists.
The low-key and tranquil nature of the ancient town has made it exceptionally well-preserved, with almost no trace of commercialization to be found. Strolling through the streets and alleys of the ancient town, you can feel the strong atmosphere of life, seeing many locals living here leisurely, leading a traditional and flavorful life.
Stepping into Jianshui Ancient Town is like traveling to a corner forgotten by time. Every corner is filled with the fragrance of history, and every brick and tile seems to be whispering, telling the story of the years.
This is a place that makes people linger and forget to return, a time tunnel that takes you back to that ancient and beautiful era.
First Impressions of Jianshui
Compared with other ancient towns in Yunnan, what is most fascinating about Jianshui Ancient Town is the leisure and tranquility that hits you in the face, as if time has slowed down here.
Strolling through the streets and alleys of the ancient town, you can still see many residents. On sunny days, the elderly will bring out small stools and sit in front of their doors to bask in the sun, chatting with their neighbors, and occasionally smiling at passing tourists.
For those passing through in a hurry, it may seem a bit primitive and rough, but those who truly know how to appreciate it can taste its unique delicacy in this simplicity.
Along the winding path, on both sides are ancient wooden storefronts, and underfoot are mottled stone slope roads. Wherever the eye can see, there are always wild flowers and plants dotted in between, outlining a simple and natural picture of the ancient town.
Those with a keen eye will also discover that there are many ancient wells hidden in the ancient town. Among them, the East Well, which has been in use since the beginning of the Yuan Dynasty, and the West Gate Daban Well, a product of the Hongwu years of the Ming Dynasty, known as the “drinking water supply for the whole city”, is the largest of these ancient wells.
The mouth of this ancient well is 2.7 meters wide, ingeniously composed of six arc-shaped stone slabs, with six stone pillars interlocking in the middle, like an ancient work of art, known as the first well in southern Yunnan.
These ancient wells have witnessed a thousand years of vicissitudes, and the rope marks on the green stone well railings are already several inches deep, some even worn through. They are not only witnesses to the history of Jianshui but also the source of Jianshui’s unique delicacies.
When walking on the gradually awakening Lin’an Road, the bell of the ancient temple, the ripples of the ancient well, the incense smoke of the Taoist temple, the vicissitudes of the city gate, and the charm of the ancient houses all make people feel the ancient charm.
The deeper you go, the more you can understand why, after more than 1,200 years of wind and rain, Jianshui Ancient Town can still maintain that tranquility and ease, as if time has frozen here, making people immersed in it.
Stepping into the Grand View Garden of Southern Yunnan
Since the Ming and Qing dynasties, Jianshui has been like a shining pearl in southern Yunnan, glittering on the stage of politics, military, economy, culture, religion, and transportation. At that time, the prosperity of commerce and trade made Jianshui burst with vitality, and the residents lived a prosperous life, with wealthy families emerging one after another.
Among these numerous wealthy families, the Zhu Family Garden is undoubtedly the most brilliant star. Its construction area exceeds 20,000 square meters, and every detail exudes elegance and luxury.
Every pattern on the carved door panels is delicate and exquisite, and the calligraphy and painting decorations outside the building are even more elegant and beautiful, as if emitting a timeless fragrance of books, making people intoxicated.
Along the path, we pass through one exquisite building after another, as if we are in a flowing historical picture scroll. Every step is full of the enjoyment of beauty and the understanding of history.
Arriving at the back garden, the sight before our eyes is even more amazing.
The rockery stands in the center of the garden, as if it were the work of nature’s magic, setting the tone of tranquility and peace for the entire garden. The pavilion, flowing water, green shade, stone pillars, and corridor boats are all interspersed in the garden, forming a picture scroll that blends ancient and modern beauty.
Walking on the long corridor, we seem to have crossed into the long river of history, feeling that poetic fairyland.
The clever combination of rockery and garden architecture allows people to taste the simple and fresh artistic conception in the magnificent splendor, and unconsciously slow down their pace, immersed in this tranquility and beauty.
One flower, one grass, one world. The existence of the Zhu Family Garden is undoubtedly a treasure of the ancient town of Jianshui.
Fortunately, it has not been destroyed by reinforced concrete, nor has it been covered by the dust of time, always maintaining that purity and brilliance. It is like a shining pearl, embedded in the embrace of the ancient town of Jianshui, attracting the attention and admiration of the world.
Jianshui on the Tip of the Tongue
If it weren’t for the call of the stomach, you might not have noticed that time had quietly slipped away. The air is filled with the aroma of various delicacies, constantly tantalizing your taste buds, making people drool.
The taste of some delicacies transcends the boundaries of regions and carries the inheritance of history, making them beloved by diners from all over. Among them, Jianshui tofu is a delicacy that cannot be missed.
The tofu, crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, is repeatedly roasted and then wrapped in a rich dipping sauce. Every bite is full of a crispy taste, making people savor it endlessly.
It is said that the water used to make this tofu is only the best when it is drawn from the Daban Well, making the texture of the tofu even more unique.
In addition, Jianshui grass shoots are also an unforgettable delicacy. This crisp and tender grass shoot can only be tasted in Jianshui. Put it in a clear soup and enjoy it together with rice noodles. It is extremely delicious, as if every bite can taste the unique flavor of Jianshui.
Jianshui steamed chicken is also one of the representatives of Jianshui cuisine. As a provincial intangible cultural heritage, its reputation is well-known.This delicacy is made using Jianshui’s specialty clay pottery steamer, and the soup is formed by condensed steam, allowing the fresh taste of the chicken to be fully retained during the steaming process. When tasting it, it is original and delicious, and extremely fresh.After enjoying a hearty Jianshui meal, you might as well take some rice cakes and bird’s nest pastries as gifts to share this delicacy from Jianshui with family and friends.
Leisurely Time in the Afternoon
After lunch, why not take a ride on the small train that has carried the vicissitudes of a century and feel the passage of time?
The pale yellow Linan Station, like a weathered watcher, stands quietly on this land. Built in 1903, it has witnessed the rise and fall of countless stories.
The narrow-gauge railway with a gauge of 1 meter is a unique mark of Jianshui, as if telling the unique charm of this place.
The meter-gauge small train is the shining pearl of the Biliping Railway. Every morning at 9:00 and every afternoon at 14:30, a train departs on time, passing through the tunnel of time, taking four hours for a round trip.
At present, it has opened four stations. Starting from Linan Station, it passes through Shuanglongqiao Station and Xianghuiqiao Station, and finally reaches Tuanshan Station. Each station has a different scenery, and each place is worth a stop for a check-in.
Among this journey, Shuanglongqiao Station is undoubtedly the most worthwhile station to visit. This three-pavilion, seventeen-arch large stone arch bridge spanning the confluence of the Lujiang River and the Tachong River is like a giant dragon winding and coiling, with a magnificent momentum.
It is the largest and most artistically valuable multi-arch continuous arch bridge in Yunnan Province, and has long been included in the history of bridge construction in China, becoming the pride of the Chinese nation.
There are many ancient bridges in China, each with a different shape, but the uniqueness of Shuanglongqiao lies in its asymmetrical beauty. This is because as the river channel changes from narrow to wide, the length of the bridge gradually increases from the initial three arches to seventeen arches, forming a unique sense of rhythm.
Although the three pavilions on the bridge have experienced the ravages of war, reconstruction, and damage, only two remain today, but they still shine brightly in the sunlight, radiating the light of history.
Stepping onto Shuanglongqiao, it is as if one has traveled back to that turbulent era, feeling the weight and vicissitudes of history. Every step is a dialogue with history, and every pause is a praise of the beautiful scenery.
Traversing Ancient and Modern
Before the curtain of night quietly falls, I hurry back to this ancient city, only to see Chaoyang Tower under the setting sun like a warrior in golden armor, becoming more majestic and magnificent.
On the city tower, the carvings on the wooden screen doors are delicate and intricate, as if telling ancient stories. Under the city wall, the old men leisurely walk their birds, becoming a unique landscape in this ancient city.
A scroll of red and yellow slowly unfolds before our eyes, which is the long song left by the years.
It tells the story of today’s people, sings the moving inheritance, and makes people intoxicated.
The glow of the setting sun showers the ancient city, draping this ancient city with a layer of golden gauze.
Standing on the city tower, I feel as if I am in a world that seems to be separated by time, feeling the passage of time.
When night falls and the lights gradually come on, I am completely immersed in this world of peace and prosperity, as if traveling through time and space, returning to the glorious years of a thousand years ago.
In the ancient city of Jianshui, I can leisurely sit in a small restaurant on the street and enjoy a day of tranquility.
The taste of specialty foods dances on the tip of my tongue, bringing me different taste experiences. The clothing in the small shops on the street is also particularly fitting, making me feel the unique charm of this city.
Everything I encounter here makes me feel extremely comfortable and at ease.
Whether it is the charm of the ancient city or the hospitality of the locals, it makes me full of love and nostalgia for this city.
